Block mounting blueprints

I bought some absolutely beautiful blueprints from Aviation Shoppe of a P-51 Mustang, F-4U Corsair, F-86 Sabre and a Rolls-Royce Merlin engine. They were very affordable and quickly posted. That’s where the problem started however, I had no idea on how to mount them or even where to hang them and so they’ve sat in their cardboard tube in my office for an embarrassing number of months now… (9 if we’re counting)

F-86 Blueprint as it arrived in July 2011


As I’d recently finished cladding the cinder block wall in my office I now had somewhere to hang my blueprints and so I decided to get somewhere to mount them. I did the obligatory google and found a few local art houses that would mount them. However I never really got any further as it became reasonably obvious I’d be paying more than I paid for the prints to get them mounted. What to do? Well go to the local hardware store of course. There I purchased some sheets of 6mm MDF ($11 per sheet) and some Ados Multipurpose spray adhesive ($17 a can).
I took a sheet of the MDF and clamped some straight pine as a router guide and routed the sheets down to the size of the cut marks (950mmx650mm) already on the blueprints (they have very generous over hangs for mounting).


Routed MDF ready for mounting

The reason I used the router is because it gives the smoothest edges. Since I planned on wrapping the edges of the print around I didn’t want a jagged finish which you’d get from a jigsaw or skilsaw. The rest of the mounting was relatively simple. I sprayed both surfaces (MDF & back of the blueprint) with the Ados in a hatch pattern (45 degrees and then back over perpendicular to the first run). I allowed a minute of tack and then started the alignment process. Now this is where if I was smart I would’ve waited for some assistance. I chose the Ados as it “remains positional for 2 mins”. Whilst this is true, it wasn’t easy with a large sheet of paper and contact adhesive. Fortunately I managed to salvage the job to a reasonable standard and then worked on smoothing the paper from the centre out. I’m not sure if the solvent of the glue activated some of the blueprint ink or if the ink is always going to come off if you rub it but I don’t recommend using a rag to press the paper down. I’d looked for a rubber roller at the hardware store, like the ones you used to use in art class, but couldn’t find anything suitable. The blueprint hasn’t smeared but enough colour transfered to the rag to make me feel uncomfortable.

Blueprint aligned on block and smoothed


I kept an eye on it for the next 20 mins or so which is the bonding time as stated on the can but was generally happy with the initial smoothing bond. I have to say I’m pretty impressed with this Ados spray adhesive. After a couple of hours (the can says 24 for full set) and rolled the blueprint over onto it’s front after putting some towels on the saw horses for protection. I then repeated the spray and press process to fold the over hangs on to the back to get the wrap around affect. Some judicious trimming with a sharp knife and I was very pleased with the result.

The final result, block mounted and wrapped Merlin blueprint


I’m totally happy with the finish although I’m not sure what to do about the protection of the surface (it’s still just paper after all) or exactly how to hang it. Currently I’m thinking of epoxy or polyurethane glue mounts on the back although a little mechanical assistance would be preferred. I think for the second attempt I might put some screws through the front into some glued blocks on the back. This will entail a little more work as I’d need to fill the holes in the front again so this is still something I’m pondering. In the mean time I’ll be appreciating the awesome blueprint adorning my mancave.

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Gliding Paraparaumu

Went for a flight with my friend, and gliding instructor, Bruce Hoult. Had an epic time and spent some brief time on the controls. First time I’ve ‘flown’ a real plane of any sort in 17 years and it felt great. Trying hard not to start another hobby.

Bruce has provided a rough overview of the flight.

Rough overview of flight plan


We covered quite a range in our hour flight and hit speeds of 90 knots with ease whilst generally cruising at around 60-70. The landing was incredibly impressive. Approach at around 70 knots and able to just kill the speed with the airbrakes and be on the ground in less than 40 meters. Bruce tells me it can be done quicker too.

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My USA made temperature controlled soldering iron going to a good home

I bought myself a new soldering iron! And this purchase made my old one redundant. I’m somewhat of a hoarder but I’m trying to be better and as such, I want to give my trusty old soldering iron away to someone that needs it! Ideally I’d like it to be someone that can’t afford a better soldering iron and is trying to get into electronics. At first I thought I’d restrict it to ages 7-14 but then I thought why should I restrict it at all? If you have a need for it, you have a need for it. So I’m currently working on some ideas on how to get it to who needs/deserves it the most. I was thinking of a competition but I hate the fact that competitions have losers and hate it when people pour their guts out only to get denied something. So this idea is a work in progress.

My trusty Pace PPS-6E


I bought this venerable beast when I was studying electronics at Canterbury University. It needs a new tip but otherwise has never let me down. Adjustable temperature and weighs a tonne (which often means quality in electronics). It was made back in a time when the USA knew what manufacturing was and the fact it was built it Maryland is proudly displayed.

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Making it real

Makerbots at the Maker Meetup

I’m involved with the burgeoning Wellington Maker Group, a collective of people that like to create something from nothing in their spare time. As part of this group I’ve taken a 1/20th shareholding in our very own Makerbot Thing-o-matic and since I was part of the core group that assembled it, I’ve been lucky to get some early build time on it. At first I got involved with the whole thing just because it’s totally cool. I had no idea what I wanted to build. In the end I needn’t have worried as mother necessity gave birth to my invention.

The Logitech G25 as it comes

Me, my brother, my brother-in-law and an old co-driver of mine all own the ubiquitous Logitech G25 to add realism to the online racing simulator we all play, rFactor. The G25 is a great wheel. It provides dynamic feedback which enhances game play well beyond any other controller on the market. The only downside, in the long run, is the wheel is a bit small. As such, I thought it’d be cool to get hold of a cheap aftermarket wheel and replace the original. Fortune had it I managed to pick up a used Momo racing wheel off of TradeMe for a mere $30 the same week the makerbot was built. Here was my project, to make it fit!

The size difference is noticeable!

The standard name for a steering wheel adaptor is a boss, so what I was wanting to make was a Momo to G25 boss. The first step was to grab the parts, my vernier and open up Sketchup. It didn’t take long to get  the basics together. The important things to note are that you only get once chance in Sketchup to change the accuracy of circles. You can see in the model image that the resolution of the circle is very low. More accurately it’s a 24 sided polygon. Turns out Sketchup can’t do true circles, just very high resolution polygons, so when you create a circle that is going to be large enough to have the shape noticeable, up the number of sides, 100+ would do nicely for what I was building but 24 doesn’t bother me at all.

Resplendent in lime green, the finished model. Note the 24 side polygon

Once the sketch was complete, I needed to get it into STL format. For that there is a SketchUp Plugin. You want to choose MM and then STL. Additionally, you will need to do a ctrl-A to select all (or equivalent in Mac or Linux) to select all of your object before running the export. You will now have an STL file which you will need to import into ReplicatorG.

At first I couldn’t work out why nothing showed up when I used the import function in ReplicatorG. The reason was because I hadn’t built the model around the origin in SketchUp, I had it floating out in space. To fix this use the ReplicatorG menu option of Move>Put on platform which should center your object. If everything has gone well, your item should be rendered in all its glory in the 3D box provided. You have some more options to flip it around if you’re worried about over hangs etc but for me now, everything was perfect.

My lovely model all golden in the ReplicatG screen

The next step is to make some gcode. This is the machine language of CNC and what the makerbot thing-o-matic also speaks. Here is where, for me, some of the “magic” or mis-understood parts of the printing process come in. Bruce Hoult, another founding member of the WMG Makerbot group, had done the primary configuration of the bot, so I didn’t really have any problems with the print quality, as he had mostly sorted it. In fact he sent me a file that I needed to import that would enable all the correct options for the gcode rendering. Because each bot can be and will be configured differently, you need to render the gcode, or the bot instructions, specifically for your machine. You can think of the STL file as the common point of reference and the gcode as the specific instructions for your bot. With the appropriate settings I ran the gcode generation. It took a few minutes.

Here's the gCode after generation as found in the gCode tab. Note the com port error as the makerbot was not attached to my computer at the time of screen capture

At this point, you are now technically ready to print. It took me about 4 false starts to get a print started properly. Seems there is no pre-warm code in the gcode I generated so I had to manually warm the extruder nozzle up myself using the control panel available in the top tool bar in ReplicatG. Our bot is set to extrude coloured PLA at 195C. After hitting run, the machine centered itself and began the predicted 2hrs30 print job. I couldn’t let it run completely unattended as I was having snagging issues from the PLA spool Bruce had printed but other that I had no problems at all.

It really was quite amazing to hold, what only a few hours earlier had simply been a concept, in my hands and the scary thing is that the next generation will take this ability for granted. Every school will have a 3D printer by the end of this decade and no doubt many homes too. For such a seemingly crude device (stacking hot plastic?!) the boss was strong, rigid and accurate.

The final part with all fittings shown against my vernier for sizing

Assembly was simple, I embedded the nuts into the designed recesses after cleaning them slightly with a craft knife (overhangs are the weakness of the extruder design). I then placed it on the G25 hub and used the original screws to attach it. The heads disappeared beautifully into the countersunk holes. Next I attached the wheel with my inch long screws which grabbed the nuts perfectly. No overhang through the boss at all means the design is very clean. I’d even managed to get the horn button recess correct and this slipped straight into the centre to give what I feel is a remarkably professional finish.

Here's the G25 with the standard wheel removed

Here's the final mod including the horn button (not yet hooked up)

To top it off, the whole project was a success. The wheel feels great in the simulator and adds further realism to a great game. As with all successful projects they spur you on to the next so I’m hoping the sim will be getting some pedal and seat upgrades! But for now, I’m satisfied….

Quick lap of Monaco on the new rig. Filthy desk and offset monitor to be corrected

Whilst there potentially was some ability to make some money out of the project I decided since I’d had so much help in getting it up and running that I’d share the output. As such you can find my Momo to G25 boss on thingiverse and can print it out or play with the design to your heart’s content. Enjoy!

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House model update

I’ve not had as much time as I would’ve liked but I’m still plugging away with my house modelling in SketchUp. The timber framing for the lower floor is almost complete. It’s interesting how many measurements I’ve managed to stuff up without realising it. It’s not until you start intersecting things that some of the mistakes become obvious. Additionally, because SketchUp makes it so easy to reference off of other points, a mistake can be quickly exaserbated.

Ground floor framing almost complete. It's not a prison, I just haven't broken the studs for windows yet

Things left to do to sort out the ground floor:

  1. Break the window studs
  2. Lower the brick fascade
  3. Add the decking joists (they’ll fill in the gap of the first floor timbers)
  4. Fill the joists with nogs
  5. Get the beam height right for once! (the joists sit on it, not go through it)
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Subsonic couch

You heard it right, a subsonic couch. As in inaudible. It shakes, rattles and rolls.

Two subsonic modules, a 2 x 50 Watt stereo amp and an active crossover make this couch anything but ordinary.

This a view of the bottom of the couch where you see the two subsonic actuators bolted to the frame. Subsonic actuators are effectively speakers with the cone replaced with a weight. They don’t need to drive air as the human ear can’t hear frequencies as low as what these operate at. They’re built to drive from about 5-200 Hz (guesstimate) and whilst having a voicecoil equivalent, they’re actually just moving a weight. These two actuators were sourced from Jaycar in NZ when they bought a shipment of Aura Interactors a decade or so back. They aren’t a stocked item anymore.

The amplifier is a Dick Smith Electronics kit and is overpowered for this operation in being 2 x 50W. I believe the original Aura Interactor amplifier packs were in the region of 5-15W. The large torodial transformer gives you an idea of the power that the amplifier is rated for.  I purchased this kit back when DSE used to be an electronics company which it sadly no longer is. A rough equivalent would be 2 of these Jaycar kits.

The other box you can see is the Dick Smith Electronics active crossover kit (K5404?). It contains volume and frequency cut off options and allows me to adjust the couch in line with the volume output of the amp. Ideally you’re connecting this to a sub-woofer line output so that the amplifier adjustments are effected in the couch too. The active crossover ensures that we’re not trying to make the subsonic actuators do what they weren’t made to do ie move at frequencies above 200Hz.

In operation, the couch adds punch to your movies that even the best sub-woofers would struggle with without having to worry about the neighbours ringing noise control. Explosions in movies become an interactive experience!

Unfortunately this photo was taken as I was taking the set-up out of the couch. After I moved to Wellington the couch sat unloved in my sisters flat for a couple of years. Little did she or her family realise they were sitting on probably one of the only 100W subsonic couches in New Zealand. They just weren’t into movies in the same way I was… As I had no easy way of getting it down to Wellington and no substitute couch to put it in, it lay unutilised. On my latest trip up north I found out they were wanting to dispose of the couch so I’ve grabbed all of my handy work and it is now planned to be added to my forthcoming rFactor simulator. If you’ve ever sat in a real V8, you’ll know that most simulators can’t recreate the rumble as you start it up or floor it. With 100W of subsonic actuator bolted to a bucket seat. My simulator will…

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Sketchup love

I’ve been painting the shelves of the bookshelf unit I built a few months back. While the paint was drying it got me to thinking that it’d be a great practice model in SketchUp. Incredibly, 30 mins later this is what I had. I say incredibly because I only really started using SketchUp this week. I know a pro could do it in under 5 mins but this is the 3rd CAD product I’ve ever used and the only one I’ve ever got any output from.

I modelled this office bookshelf in less then 30 mins

Here is my actual office cabinet.

This one took me a lot longer to put together! Ignore the mess, it's spring cleaning weekend.

What an incredible tool. I’ve just looked up photo-renderers and they’re looking very affordable starting at around US$180 commercial.

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McLaren M22

My father and I went to the New Zealand Grand Prix meet held at the  Manfeild circuit outside Palmerston North last weekend. It was a great day with the one make Suzukis putting on some good racing, the NZV8s putting on some great racing, the American Muscle cars putting on some of the best entertainment but the real show stopper for me was the lunch time entertainment; the McLaren M22.

Check out that airscoop

More or less what the driver sees when sitting in a McLaren M22

There are four more photos on Flickr of this car and these two at different sizes.

Here’s the video I took of Craig Baird’s laps. I wish the commentators had talked a little less but at least they did stop themselves for one run down the straight. Sounds great on my Yamaha amp all cranked up.

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SketchUp progress

I’ve been modeling my house in SketchUp. This is how far I’ve got so far and it’s mostly dimensionally accurate.

My early progress in learning SketchUp has got me this far.

I’ve found a pretty awesome channel on YouTube called The SketchUp Show. I’ve seen their lattern demo and think I should give that a try as I’m pretty sure I’m missing some of the more basic skills that they showed in that…. The demos make it look really easy so obviously I need some practice and potentially a mouse. My trackpad doesn’t seem to cut it.

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Getting started with Sketchup – again

After a false start last year I found some renewed enthusiasm for getting started again with SketchUp after seeing a presentation at the Wellington Makers group by the new head of Ponoko‘s 3D production Rich Borrett. At the meetup he showed how we could make a 3D item from 2D parts as shown in the first image on the left on Ponoko’s blog article on the meetup. You can simply model the item in 3D and the apply a plugin which will turn it into the 2D parts. This sort of thing is ideal for making RC planes although the laser time might be prohibitive in terms of costs. Doing this is something on my “to investigate list”. If it is too expensive, then I’ll just have to finish my own 3D CNC router which is about 15% complete after 5 years since starting.

With SketchUp I wanted to stretch my interest in architecture and Rich’s demo gave my the inspiration to get going with it again. There really is something magical about seeing someone achieve something in front of your eyes as opposed to trying to teach yourself. So, I’ve started modelling my house so that I can plan the renovations we want to do as well as learning some skills I can apply across all my projects. 3D is where it’s at and there is no better time to get involved. SketchUp has made it accessible.

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